If you ever travel through Thuringia in the south-east part of Germany just make a stop in Weimar and you won’t be disappointed. For a small city of 65000 it has a vast cultural heritage to offer.

Weimar was home to the giants of German literature: Goethe and Schiller, home to classical music and a composer Franz Liszt, the birthplace of the Bauhaus movement and the place where Germany’s first democratic constitution was signed after the First World War, giving its name to the Weimar Republic period of 1918 – 1933.

It’s an easy place to explore with many compact squares surrounded by old townhouses and numerous museums, palaces and monuments on every corner and sumptuous gardens near the centre of the city.

In Theaterplatz you can admire the imposing National Theatre with the symbolic statue of Goethe and Schiller

and The Bauhaus Museum at the opposite side of the square.

From there narrow and winding lanes lead to the Schiller House and the Goethe House where his famous “The Faust” was written and his memorabilia can be seen.

Nearby, the main art museum – The Schlossmuseum with its first class collection of paintings ranging from Renaissance until the beginning of the 20th century occupies the City Palace -

a sprawling building with a distinctive tower which is situated on the banks of the river Ilm and surrounded by a large classical park designed by Goethe himself.

Just to the south of the palace the view opens onto the impressive baroque buiding with a columnal porch. It is a well known music school founded by Franz Liszt in 1872.

We follow more winding lanes until we reach the 16th century Herderplatz with its white Herder Church famous for Lucas Cranach the Elder’s altar triptych (1552). It is a UNESCO site and I’m a bit disappointed to find church doors firmly bolted. It seems we arrived there after the closure time at 4pm.

We have to move on to the picturesque Cranach House rising above a colourful market square where an arty coffee shop tempts us to take a break and tuck into delicious cakes.

The square boasts pretty as postcards buildings and an impressive neo-gothic Town Hall.

Our visit culminates in Weimar’s Historical Cemetery just outside the city centre. It has a park-like feel with its dark green tree alleys, old walls engraved with family graves and little criss-crossing paths.

A richly ornamented Russian Orthodox Chapel rises above the cemetery and its gilded onion domes draw attention to the burial site of the Russian Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, the wife of Grand Duke Carl Friedrich.

The mausoleum chapel was built for the Russian Tsar’s daughter in 1860s. Even soil from Russia was brought especially for her last place of rest.

The whole cemetery is a lovely secluded spot perfect for wandering around and discovering classical graves of many Weimar celebrities. The coffins of Goethe and Schiller can be viewed together with Goethe’s close confidante Charlotte von Stein.

After all this cultural nourishment we’re ready for culinary Thuringian specialty such as the original bratwurst with mustard.

HOW TO GET THERE

By train – from Dresden, Berlin, Leipzig or Halle. The centre of town is a 20-minute walk south of the train station

By car – along E40 between Erfurt and Dresden

What we only hear about this small strip of land is its huge Lake Malawi (Nyasa) slicing through the whole country, its grim poverty and some serious corruption.

But we’ve decided to give it a go and tried to cross a border at Tanzanian Mbeya. First surprise was the inability to get a visa at the border ($70). We could only watch the British tourists swiftly going ahead (no visas required for the UK citizens). After lengthy discussions with the border control we were issued with some temporary papers and told to get our visas in the capital Lilongwe or we’ll land in prison. Glancing around a few officers with serious automatic weapons I solemnly promised myself to do it but not straight away. First we had the whole lake to discover. Lilongwe must wait.

There is only one main road from the north to the south and our first stop will be Karonga. Throngs of people line the road carrying serious loads on their heads. From time to time we pass other minibuses. Children smile, wave and greet us in English.

In Karonga cattle wanders along the road, people browse through second-hand clothes displayed near shops. Our aim is to get to a lively village of Chitimba on the lake Malawi shores. We’re not disappointed with stunning views.

The lake is like a shimmering blue sea and our road is winding up the rolling hills.

Our Hakuna Matata Camp has a lovely setting with a wide, sandy beach and lush hills on one side. We spend the whole evening frolicking in  crystal clear waters and then admiring the full moon rising above the lake. The site is very secluded, has a nice bar and good facilities ($10 per night).

Outside our camp there is a local market full of exquisite wooden carvings made mainly from ebony or teak and you can haggle with locals to your heart content. We spent the whole day choosing and placing orders and ended up with several masks, knives, elephants, rhinos, frames and even some colourful paintings.

The highlight of our stay there is a 25km hike to the missionary village of Livingstonia and the Machenwe waterfall. The hike takes our small group through a lovely countryside dotted with small fields of kassava, bananas and even some coffee plantations.

We follow a wide but pretty steep path to the top of a mighty hill.

The sun is fierce and we stop frequently to admire the lake views and quench our thirst.

Livingstonia, called after Dr David Livingstone is an interesting colonial settlement set up by the first Scottish missionaries in Central Africa.

There are only two or three pine-lined streets there with a few shops, schools, a hospital, Dr Livingstone’s museum and quite an imposing red brick church with lovely stained windows depicting Dr Livingstone and offering spectacular, panoramic mountain views from its tower.

On our way back we stop at a local restaurant. It is just a small hut with two tables inside where we are offered a local staple dish of ugali made from kassava and with bits of chicken and some kassava leaves. It hasn’t got a lot of taste but we’re now ravenous and exhausted.

On our way back there’s a small detour to the impressive Machenwe Fall which thunders 125 metres into the valley below. The cliffs and hills are covered by deep green tropical forest and groups of local children play loudly and wash their clothes in the stream and in rocky pools directly above the waterfall.

We climb down a small path behind the falls and reach a cave, where, as the story goes, local people hid from slave traders in the 19th century. The path down is very steep and slippery and it takes us another few hours to drag ourselves back to the campsite. Instead of lazying in hammocks we have to prepare and cook our dinner in a stone fireplace.  When finished it’s pitch dark and we can lie on the beach under millions of stars. It’s a perfect end to the exciting day.

From Chitimba we move on to the next stop – Nkhata Bay. It’s a lively place with houses crawling up the lush hillside and a  bunch  of markets, craft stalls and , suddenly, plenty of backpackers. It seems that all overland tours congregate in Nkhata Bay.

We move only a few miles south to the quieter Kande Bay and Mbamba village. Our campsite is big with bungalows, rows of showers, tent sites, a restaurant, a bar, kayak excursions and even horse riding.

Life revolves around the buzzing waterfront bar and on the beach. There is a small, rocky island just in front of us and fishermen’s huts are dotted along the shore nearby.

This place has a relaxed vibe and we wander around towards a village. We struck up a conversation with Gray who is happy to show us his place. We visit wooden huts hugging the shore and with hundreds of small silvery fish drying out in the sun.

Local Tonga tribe people are mainly fishermen and the shore is lined with their narrow dugout canoes. People show us their fish catches and how to mend their boats.

Gray takes us to his house and we end up sharing a lunch of kassava and fish with his family and friends.

We pass small kassava fields  or banana plots and , from time to time, monitor lizards dart across our path. We also noticed a chameleon, a few scorpions and some small monkeys screeching and observing us intently.

It’s a good place to relax for a few days and the highlight of our stay is roasting a whole pig and then feasting throughout the night.

We’ve even been taken to an island in one of the local canoes. The thing was really narrow and wobbled a lot. We totally relied on our captain Pink Floyd who stood in the middle and paddled furiously. We glided and wobbled through waves until reached the island rocks. I did not dare move even one bit in fear of overturning our unstable vessel.

I was amazed to hear that these guys venture up to 6 miles from the shore at night and use torchlight to keep in touch with each other. Seriously scary stuff!

We could admire a lovely view of our camp and green hills behind it. And the sun setting low over horizon and giving red hues to the lake was an unforgettable finish to our Lake Malawi adventure.

Now it’s only one stop in Lilongwe before we say good-bye to the friendliest people in Africa.

Lilongwe is a scattered low-rise city, not exactly the liveliest of places but has a handful of supermarkets and banks. On the whole there is not much to see apart from the old town and a wildlife sanctuary.

We never got to the consulate as were late for our flight back to Kenya. So we jumped in a taxi and hoped for the best. The officers were most bemused by our lack of visas and ordered us to pay the fee of $140 for two people. Our bad luck – we run out of dollars and only had some British pounds left. To our consternation they refused to take or exchange pounds. We had to go outside the airport and exchange the money in the street.

Desperate we ran back to the airport just in time to board the only plane in the whole airfield  taking us first to Lusaka in Zambia and then to Nairobi. A memorable finish to our African adventure.

This area  has always been a major draw for the rich and famous. Still, the Lake Maggiore is hardly off-limits to the budget traveller. There is excellent hiking in the mountains and no shortage of hostels and campsites (we paid only 10 Euros per tent site in Baveno).

The Lake Maggiore is the second largest lake after Garda as it snakes 65 km among mountains from the Swiss canton of Ticino to the Italian Lombardy in the south.

The most scenic section of the lake is the Gulf of Borromeo, named after the family who owned the surrounding areas. The main town and a tourist resort is Stresa, “Queen of the lake” which lies at the foot of the Mottarone peak and boasts glorious views to the three islands: Isola Bella, Isola dei Pescatori and Isola Madre.

Stresa has the faded charm of the early 20th century with its many Belle Epoque villas, gardens and hotels. Amongst them the sumptuous Grand Hotel des Illes Borromees used to have famous guests such as Queen Victoria, Winston Churchill and Ernest Hemingway.

From Stresa it’s a quick ferry hop to Isola Bella. It was in the mid of the 16th century that Count Carlo III decided to build a monumental baroque palace and ornamental gardens. He named it Isola Isabella after his wife, later shortened to Isola Bella (Beautiful Island).

With its imposing palace at the front and gardens to the back, Isola Bella gives the impression of a floating vessel and definitely has an impact when you approach its shores.

There are some narrow streets with cluster of buildings near the harbour.

Once you enter the palace you can admire its lavish interiors full of marble statues, paintings and Murano chandeliers. The Throne and Queen’s Hall are the most impressive. You can also visit Napoleon’s room where he and Josephine slept in 1797.

At lake level there are six mosaic grottoes, built to be used in  summertime to avoid the heat.

The Italian garden is very extravagant and dotted with statues, fountains and exotic plants and flowers.

Pompous white peacocks wander around the garden and flowers spread their scent. The ten ornate terraces culminate in a huge statue of a unicorn ridden by Amore.

Another ferry ride from Isola Bella brings you to Isola Madre famous for its spectacular botanical gardens full of rare plants from the Med, Asia, New Zealand and South America.

If you wish to get the whole panorama of lakes and the Alps you can take the cable car from Stresa to the Mottarone Peak or climb the winding path for four hours passing little villages and old churches, villas with terraced gardens, woods and alpine grasses until you reach the peak and take in spectacular views.

A few kilometres from Stresa there is another lake town Baveno famous for its pink granite and the famous Church of Santi Gerrasio e Protasio, which still has its Romanesque facade and frescoed vaults.

Following the lake road you will reach the suburban Verbania. It is worthwhile to to stop there in Pallanza to visit beautiful Botanical Gardens of Villa Taranto.

In 1931 Neil Mc Eacharn, a retired Scottish Captain purchased the property and transformed 20 hectares into a great botanical garden. You can wander 5 miles along different paths discovering over 20,000 various trees, shrubs and flowers from 5 continents.

There are acres of hundreds types of rhododendrons, dahlias, tulips and other shrubs and truly magnificent trees including cypress, sequoia, horse chestnuts from India and a “Handkerchief Tree”.

In pools giant water lilies float and among them statues and urns are displayed.

From Verbania you can move north along the lake shore passing the remains of Malpaga Castles built on two small islands and reaching Cannobio, last Italian town before the Swiss border.

Cannobio’s narrow and cobbled streets hide many medieval buildings, the Sanctuary of the Santissima Picta and the medieval Ragione Palace. I particularly enjoyed the long promenade and fabulous gelati on the lake shore.

Going in the opposite direction to the south of the lake you will encounter the fortress of Angera still dominating the southern shore of the lake.

Nearby town of Arona was the birthplace of Saint Carlo Borromeo who was an archbishop and cardinal of Milan.

Towering above the town is his huge 33- metre high statue known locally as San Carlone. You can climb up inside the statue and look through his eyes to get a great view of the lake.

For those who need more relaxation there are regular ferry services crossing the lake.

And what is more enchanting than admiring the scenery while enjoying a few glasses of red wine.

WHEN TO GO

avoid July and August as the twisting roads are very crowded.

April to mid June and September to October are the best.

GETTING AROUND

car, buses offer regular service around the shores, ferry to most towns

rail: lago maggiore express (Arona, Stresa, Verbania, Luino, Brissago, Locarno)

see: www.lagomaggioreexpress.com

see: www.italianlakes.com

www.agendadelturista.it

Picture endless white sand, turqoise waters, swaying palms and reefs writhing with colourful fish – minus the big crowds of the Med or Caribbean.

But before reaching the northern shores it’s really wortwhile to spend a few hours on the Spice Tour on a spice plantation.

There is no shortage of organised tours departing from Stone Town. Our guides Salim and Musa took our group to the centre of the island around Kizimbani village.

The tour started with the lunch in Salim’s house where we enjoyed a meal of pilau rice with marinated beef, vegetables seasoned with heaps of herbs and spices topped with some mango juice and kassawa leaves.

Then we started a few hours’ walk around shamba (plantation) with Salim showing us lots of spices, herbs and fruit trees. We had to guess their names followed by smelling and tasting different plants. I quite enjoyed touching and chewing them but I did not find the identification process that easy.

These are the names of some of the plants we encountered there: cardamon, chilli, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, Eucalyptus, ginger, jasmine, lemongrass, nutmeg, peppercorns, sweet basil, turmeric, vanilla, pineapples, apple custard, jack fruit, bananas, mangoes, passion fruit, durian, star fruit, robusta coffee beans, lipstick tree, soap bush, rubber tree, kassawa, bread tree and many more.

Most of these plants were introduced to Zanzibar by the Omanis – they discovered that Zanzibar’s hot and humid climate was perfect for the cultivation of spices.

At the end of the tour children surrounded our little group and offered palm tree necklaces, hats and woven bags full of these wonderful spices and plants. We also made a stop in a wooden hut to try different types of tea (lemongrass and spiced tea recommended!), had lots of fruit and picked up some jasmine and ying yang oils.

It was a great day out ($25 per head including lunch) and we very much enjoyed meeting locals. However, life on a plantation is not so rosy. All farmland belongs to the state and even though the whole village is employed on the farm their houses do not have any running water or electricity. The government seems to spend a long time experimenting with different crops but without making any conclusions about which crop is the most profitable. It was obvious that the most important source of cash was tourism.

We then moved on to the northern tip of the island to Kendwa. Kendwa is situated on a wide, sandy beach and lined with seafood restaurants, clubs and bars. A perfect base for backpackers famous for its legendary full-moon beach parties. I particularly liked the Scuba Do diving centre run by great South-African divers who were especially helpful to Artur when he trod on a sea urchin leaving his foot with hundreds of spikes (the best remedy to soak your foot with the juice of unripened papaya, break these spikes – all spikes under the skin will dissolve after a few weeks and be absorbed by your body.) Ouch!

In Kendwa we stayed at Sunset Bungalow Beach Resort – quite a low-key place with small bugalows dotted around the beach and gardens (price $15 per double room with a terrace, own bathroom and breakfasts included in the price).

The beach was great with an easy-going atmosphere and it was possible to swim at all tides.

You can hire boats and go snorkelling or diving off the tiny coral islands.

Only a few kilometres to the north there is a big traditional fishing village of Nungwi. You can either hop on a boat or walk along the shore at low tide (8:30am) and reach Nungwi within 45 minutes.

Nungwi is a place where dhow building (Jahazi) is still practised using traditional methods. We passed many fishermen either building or repairing wooden boats or groups of women and children gathering crabs at a low tide.

At the tip of the island stands a lighthouse built in 1886. Just before the lighthouse is Muarani Aquarium ($5 entrance fee), a small, natural pond surrounded by porous coral stone into which sea water seeps through.

There you can see dozens of endangered green turtles. We had a lot of fun feeding them with seaweed and salad leaves. The biggest and oldest turtle was a 25 year old John F Kennedy and its 20 years old partner Marylin Monroe. Green turtles are endangered, live on Zanzibar atolls and are herbivores (eat greens only). Unfortunately for them the local population considers their eggs and meat as aphrodisiac. The same with monitor lizards – they love turtles’ eggs.

There is also a turtle nursery on site where tiny turtles are brought from different beaches. When small they’re fed with sardines and other fish but when they reach two years they move on to eating greens. They often nimble each other – do not seem very sociable creatures.

When older they’re released back on atolls and fitted with transmitters (they travel long distances and are even found in the Red Sea in Egypt).

We saw some monitor lizards, pythons, land tortoises and to our surprise heaps of dolphin skulls. In 2006 there was an underwater quake and 500 bottle-nosed dolphins lost their ability to feed themselves or navigate and died of starvation.

Next to them lies a skeleton of the humpback whale washed out in Nungwi lagoon.

Thanks to looking after the aquarium the village gets all entrance fees and uses the money to fund social projects such as building a school, a road and some new shops.

From Nungwi it’s easy to hire a boat and visit the most beautiful coral reef in Zanzibar – the Mnemba Atoll. With its pristine beaches and clear waters it’s a paradise for divers. It is home to lots of fish, turtles and quite a few dolphins.

The views are sensational – bleached beaches, turqoise shallows and rich dark waters as sloping reefs drop away. It is a remote paradise. But when you’re there you don’t need anything else.

GETTING THERE

use dala-dalas (minibuses) from Stone Town

hire boats to get to coral reefs (prices always negotiable)

The moment you arrive in central Dar-es-Salaam you’re totally overwhelmed by frantic crowds spilling from everywhere, noise and hawkers tugging at your clothes and offering their wares. Our oriental adventure starts here at the harbour when we board a “Kilimanjaro” ferry destined for a tantalising island of Zanzibar.

After two hours of cruising the Indian Ocean and passing numerous sailing dhows dotting the azure waters the island slowly appears on the horizon. Old, crumbling palaces along white sandy beaches, rows of little boats and big, rusty ships signify the harbour of Stone Town – our gateway to Zanzibar.

I already look forward to losing myself in the ancient alleys of Arabian Nights-style town. If only we could pass the border checkpoint and incessant waves of people disembarking a few ferries.

At last we can head from the waterfront to a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleyways, flanked with crumbling mansions, overhanging terraces, bazars and mosques.

We’re quickly surrounded by many “friends” trying to lead us to their favourite shops or selling their wares.

The most intriguing are large carved doors with brass studs influenced by Indian motiffs. Apparently, these studs used to protect cities from elephant raids in India. But Zanzibar is not at all known for any elephants. Obviously, locals were impressed with the Indian fashion. Still, the doors are beautifully and elaborately decorated with rich carvings often depicting lotus flower, fish and other animals.

Stone Town is steeped in Swahili culture where Arabs arrived to trade and subsequently married into local society. Briefly, the Portuguese ruled the island but were driven away by the Omanis.

Their sultanate survived until the 20th century. No wonder that the architecture is a result of Arab, Persian, Indian, Portuguese and African traditions mixing together.

Stone Town is small and it’s not so difficult to find your way out of alleyways and arrive at the waterfront.

An unusual meeting point on the waterfront is a gigantic Indian fig tree known as the “Big Tree”. It was planted by Sultan Khalife in 1911 and is a popular place for workshops and to find boat pilots to hire.

The other  characteristic buildings on the waterfront are the Arab Fort and the House of Wonders – a sultan’s residence. It’s a rather striking building with its white walls, clock tower and elaborate balustrades. The Old Fort is a stone fortress with the internal courtyard full of gift shops and a small arena. The Palace Museum has a selection of rooms dedicated to sultans and Princess Salme of Zanzibar. They’re all in different stages of neglect and the whole place is rather melancholic.

Nearby there is a place of the biggest slave market in Zanzibar. Nowadays, the Anglican Church stands in the middle of this former place of torture. It was built at the end of the 19th century when the slavery was reluctantly abolished. A monument to the slaves is just beside the church.

You can also go inside narrow tunnels where slaves used to be chained and lie on stone benches.

Apart from obvious architectural delights Stone Town offers great shopping for tourists as there lots of different shops and workshops next to each other. Whether you hunt for spices, kangas, furniture, T-shirts, Tinga-tinga paintings, woodcarvings or woven goods you can always find a souvenir.

The main market called Darajani Market is just outside Stone Town and is a lively, loud and colourful place. All types of food are sold there from meat and fish, bundles of chicken, fruit and vegetables, herbs and spices to clothes and sandals, copper and brass bowls, pans and modern mobile phones or TVs.

The town changes dramatically at nights with its green and yellow lights and bursting alive with live music venues. Tourists flock to the Forodhani Gardens on the main sea walkway in front of the Old Fort and the House of Wonders.

Every night the gardens host a very popular market selling freshly caught and grilled seafood and fish, sugar cane juice and other Zanzibari recipes. It’s not exactly cheap but great fun to walk around, choose different fish, haggle with stalls’ vendors drinking exotic juices and enjoying the sunset over the ocean.

If you stay another day in Stone Town it is worthwhile to visit a few small islands a few kilometres from the town. The Prison Island (Changuu) is especially popular as you can visit giant Aldabra tortoises and snorkel on a shallow reef. All you have to do is to find a boat pilot and settle a trip price. Our pilot demanded $40 for a return trip but we haggled hard and managed to reduce the price to $20 for two people.

It only takes 30 minutes to get there and the island is narrow with a beautiful sandy beach and the 19th century prison in the middle housing giant tortoises brought over from Seychelles by the Sultan. There is quite a big colony of them with the oldest male now 185 years old. At over 200kg in weight they still manage to move rather quickly and munch through spinach leaves and salad all the time. They seemed to like me stroking their necks and bonding with them was great. Just avoid their sharp beaks as they’re able to take your  fingers or even the whole hand off. At the time of our visit they were still in the mood for breeding and very sexed up – even the 150 year old specimens.

It was also fun to pick up some tiny tortoises and move them around.

We wandered around the mangrove forest and spotted some peacocks, tiny Suni antelopes and more ancient tortoises. The prison nowadays houses a guesthouse with a lovely swimming pool. The island was not crowded and it was lovely to have the whole beach to ourselves. All our tropical fantasies were more than fulfilled.

GETTING THERE

a ferry from Dar-es-Salaam to Stone Town- prices vary from $25 to $35

GETTING AROUND

walking around the town is the best option

use dala-dalas (minibuses) for trips outside the town

boats on the waterfront (prices vary – always haggle)

ACCOMMODATION

selection of hotels in Stone Town

we stayed at Safari Lodge on Konomi Road

Who in Central Europe has not heard about a famous robber Rumcajs, his wife Hanka and son Cypisek? Though he’s a fictional character from the forest of Raholec near Jicin but the Paradise Region is very real and considered to be one of the most beautiful and mysterious places in the Czech Republic.

The Czech Robin Hood was hiding from the bad, malicious count Albrecht Wallenstein among rock labyrinths, castle ruins and forested hills around a little town called Jicin – the gateway to the Cesky Raj.

Rumcajs was created by a writer Radek Pilarz and Jicin was his hometown.

With its charming and picturesque main square adorned with lavish Baroque arcades leading to a Baroque castle and a magnificent church of Jakub Vetsiho you cannot fail to admire its charm.

From the Valdicka Brama – a medieval tower dominating the whole town centre you can see for miles from the Jesuit college, rows of old townhouses to the distant forested hills.

There is an interesting Regional Museum portraying local events and prominent historical figures especially the unpopular count Albrecht Wallenstein.

But by far the most popular place is Rumcajs’s cobbler workshop near the tower where you can try his tools, sit down at his table or try his boots.

No wonder that thousands of tourists flock to this stunning area throughout the whole year.

And the best way to explore it is by hiking the sandy trails or climbing countless vertical rocks.

Just a few miles from Jicin you will enter the Prachovske Skaly, the biggest clusters of rocks 450 metres high that look like rows of vertical, grey pencils reaching to the sky.

The tour is around 4 km long and leads through narrow rock corridors and different lookout points. To get there you have to climb hundreds of steep steps carved in the rock or squeeze through narrow gaps between huge stones. Once at the top there are stunning views of the area and canyons lined with dark vertical rocks. From one of the lookout points you can see ruins of the Trotsky Castle with its two towers on two parallel basalt rocks guarding an entrance to the castle – just like the Devil’s horns.

It’s well worth a climb for exhilarating views and a sense of adventure. A true paradise for all romantic souls.

GETTING THERE

flights to Prague, then by rail or bus to Jicin -120km from Prague

FOOD AND DRINK

great and cheap beer – original Pils beer

hearty food – staples include dumplings, meat and potatoes

ACCOMMODATION

for true romantics staying in the castle in Hruba Skala is a must (Renaissance castle perched on the top of a rock).

Bed&Breakfast or hotels in Jicin or Trutnov.

Standing outside a bar around day-trippers wandering along the Reeperbahn between girlie bars and music clubs I observe a mix of decay and gentrification. You could be forgiven to feel East Berlin vibe but we’re firmly in the west – Germany’s second biggest city Hamburg.

A busy port was always assured a steady flow of ships and sailors looking for liquor and ladies. It was on the “sinful strip” in the St. Pauli district in the early sixties that the Beatles honed their skills and their sound. As John Lennon himself said though he was born in Liverpool, it was Hamburg where he grew up.

But there’s more to Hamburg than shipping and sex. It has this special kind of rebellious streak with its unique mixture of old and new, boho dissaray and sophistication.

The best way to appreciate the city and its massive port is to take a ferry tour of its harbour. From the Landungsbrucken (jetties) you can walk along a promenade admiring the steady flow of numerous boats crisscrosssing the harbour, the tall ship museum Rickmer Rickmers or explore a chain of popular seafood restaurants lined along the fish market.

Near the port you will pass the Storehouse City – massive, red brick warehouses transformed into modern offices that overlook a grand canal and several metal bridges. The 132-metre tower of St. Michel with its bombed out facade is a well-known landmark in  this  area.

From there there’s a pleasant walk to the central square surrounded by swanky shopping malls and chic little boutiques but it is the Town Hall that dominates the square with its impressive architecture and its sheer size.

I particularly enjoyed a Sunday antique market in Collonadestrasse with its myriad of colourful stalls displaying all sorts of antiques and with wonderful almond Danish pastries  under the arcade’s columns. From there it is only a short stroll to the central park full of vibrant autumnal colours, ice creams shops, a tropical greenhouse and plenty of relaxing locals.

For those wanting more privacy there’s a lovely Alster Lake where you can hire sailing or rowing boats or just stroll along the shores gawping at different embassies’ buidings and their resplendent architecture.

Heading west we pass a prosperous suburb sprawling over some hills and dotted with pretty pastel houses and steep steps leading to the River Elbe. In autumnal sunshine, container ships process down the Elbe and in the distance we can just make out some docks and the Airbus factory. People lie on the sandy beach enjoying their drinks or playing with children. And what’s more satisfying than watching the sunset on the Elbe beach.

WHEN TO GO

best to visit in spring, summer or early autumn. The beach bars are open until the end of September

GETTING AROUND

metro, buses: day travel ticket for public transport is over 5 Euros

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Nordsee – popular chain serving seafood by the ferry terminal. Fish&chips is a bargain at 3 Euros

Vapiano - popular Italian chain

Habibi Grill in St. Georg – Turkish cuisine at 8.50 Euros

WHERE TO SLEEP

Instant Sleep has dorms from 16.5 Euros in the Schanzenviertel (see www.instantsleep.de )

Meininger City Hotel – twin rooms start from 34.50 Euros per night

For a wide selection of hotels and sightseeing please visit

www.hamburg-tourism.de

It’s still the place to come if you love your ships or simply enjoy the seaside.

The Historic Dockyard is the best place to start and immerse yourself in maritime culture. It’s in the middle of the old harbour, very close to the railway and bus station and is the best known for housing three magnificent old ships: HMS Victory, HMS Warrior and King Henry VIII’s beloved Mary Rose.

You can wander for hours amongst numerous museums, shops and action stations but the most impressive are ships especially the HMS Victory which played an important part in the Battle of Trafalgar (1805), leading the fleet to victory, although Vice-Admiral Nelson lost his life during this battle.

In its heyday, the HMS Victory carried a crew around 900 sailors. The tour around the ship is interesting as interiors look authentic with antique furniture, low ceilings and cannon balls dotted in straight lines. Life on board was really tough and crew members heavily punished for swearing, blaspheming, drunkenness or fighting. This was done on the top deck with everyone attending and using the whip “Cat o’Nine tails”. Afterwards, vast quantities of vinegar were applied to poor sailors’ backsides. Ouch!

The HMS Warrior dating back to 1860 was the first iron-hulled armoured battleship and run by both steam and sail.

As for Tudor Mary Rose – it was salvaged in 1982 and has many Tudor artefacts brought from the site.

To round off the visit you should not forget action stations with its interactive features such as a virtual ride on a helicopter, using a radar or shooting the enemy boats. It’s definitely the quickest way to see whether you are cut out for the navy life.

Not forgetting about other needs there is no better place than a new shopping and restaurant centre on the waterfront called Gunwharf Quays famous for its ultra modern Spinnaker Tower (170m), offering great harbour views from the top.

And what is better than relaxing on the waterfront with a cold beer in your hand watching ferries sail by.

A short walk will lead you to Southsea and its long-stretching shingle beaches and fantastic views of the narrow entrance to the harbour from the top of the Round Tower. During a sunny day the sea shimmers with brilliant light and the horizon is dotted with islands-forts.

After all this excitement you can hop on board the boat and cruise around harbour admiring both old and new warships or just feeling the sea breeze on your face.

HOW TO GET THERE

80 miles southwest from London

90 minutes by Rail

2 hours 30 mins by National Express Coach

Standing high upon the chalk cliffs the mansion commands breathtaking views over rolling hills, surrounding woods and an idyllic bend in the river Thames at the bottom of the valley.

At the beginning of the 20th century Cliveden was a glittering hub of society as the home of Waldorf and Nancy Astor and later associated with the infamous “Profumo Affair” in the 60s.

Once you enter the Grand Avenue you’re greeted by the impressive Fountain of Love with the marble shell and nymphs surrounding it.

The approach to the house is spectacular and  the house is surrounded by magnificent gardens with great sculptures and a clock tower towering above surroundings.

And autumn is a perfect time to visit as you can admire  golden hues of the forest , triangular shaped beds with colourful plants or reddish acers and golden wisteria in the Water garden.

My favourite place was a secret garden hidden away in the forest full of graceful statues and little arches. And the most romantic setting was on the edge of a cliff overlooking the river Thames with its charming Tortoise fountain and a lovely stone bench.

There are numerous river walks leading through woods and pastures and a chance to go boating on the river. And what can be better than relaxing on the deck, eating cakes and admiring views.

The hotel is open to visitors only in the afternoons but you can wander around its gardens for hours.

The site has been home to an Earl, two Dukes, a Prince of Wales and the Viscounts Astor. Originally the house was built in 1666 for George Villiers, the 2nd Duke of Buckingham. He was a well-known rogue who kept his mistress Anna, Countess of Shrewsbury there and had a duel on the estate grounds.

Nowadays there are more peaceful events organised in Cliveden such as classic car shows where proud owners of old and not so old vehicles gather to show off and swap their experiences. The old time charm and the tranquility of the place can easily transport you back to the 20s or 30s. If only we could join Nancy Astor parties!

HOW TO GET THERE

the estate is 2 miles north of Taplow in Berkshire

ADMISSION FEE

the estate belongs to the National Trust and the entry fee is £8.00

It is a brilliant destination for history buffs wanting to uncover the colourful past of the unlikely Victorian Prime Minister and for walkers or cyclists who can wander through beech woods and rolling hills. For us it was The Apple and Cider Festival held on the hottest October Sunday that was the main attraction. And the place did not disappoint us.

The orchard was full of fruit trees heavy with ripe, colourful apples where everyone was encouraged to pick the best fruit, taste freshly pressed apple juices or some bubbly cider. Hundreds of red and green coxes, pippins, sunsets and russetts landed on the ground ready for tasting. For those with more refined tastes a lovely outdoor restaurant offered apple crumbles, scones and coffee.

The house is a grand, red building with a mock Jacobean facade and sweeping lawns full of elegant garden ornaments.

Inside it is full of Victorian artefacts, paintings and furniture. Disraeli was Queen Victoria’s favourite politician and she was also a frequent guest in Hughenden. There you can easily imagine dining with Queen Victoria, try her favourite chair or writing  with Disraeli in his trusty, small study room at the top of the house. He acquired the house in 1848 and stayed there until his death in 1881. His ascent through political ranks was partly achieved through charming influential aristocratic ladies and his marriage to the wealthy widow Mary-Anne. Though not to everyone’s liking Disraeli had a real affection for his wife and proved to be a skilful negotiator on the international scene.

The house is also a place of the top secret Second World War story of Operation Hillside, for which artists painted bombing maps, including the famous Dambusters raid. When visiting cellars you’re transported back in time to the 1940s especially in the wartime living room.

Outside there are numerous forest walks leading to the Disraeli Monument overlooking the valley which built as a surprise by his wife to commemorate his father in 1862.

On the way down to the church where Dizzy is buried you can stop at picturesque picnic spots which you share with sheep and some bullocks.

The Chapel of St Michael’s and All Angels is the final resting place for Disraeli and his family members. It is a modest place full of serene atmosphere surrounded by green pastures. A perfect spot to relax before heading home.

HOW TO GET THERE

by car: along M40 from London

it is 1.5 miles north of High Wycombe

ADMISSION PRICE

Hughenden Manor belongs to the National Trust

House and Garden – entrance fee is £7.25

Garden only – entrance fee is £2.90